Knit Blocking & St John Knits
Sweaters and knits
For many of our clients, sweaters and knits constitute a significant portion of their wardrobe investment.
There’s alpaca, angora, cashmere, escorial, marino, mohair, vicuna and other fine wools.
From the likes of Ballantyne, Cucinelli, Escada, Gucci, Hermes, Loro Piana, Missoni, Prada, Pringle, Ralph Lauren, TSE and St John Knits.
At RAVE FabriCARE, our cleaning, blocking and packaging process for sweaters and knits is unmatched any dry cleaner in Arizona and by few others in the USA.
Our blocking procedures provide you with the assurance of a perfect fit.
And our packaging methods help you maintain their shape.
And we can do this (in most cases) even if your fine knits have been contaminated by fire, smoke, soot, water, mold, mildew and/or humidity as a result of a fire or flood.
Simply put, you can trust RAVE FabriCARE to keep all your sweaters and knits in ship shape condition.
Tips on Caring for St. John Knits
RAVE FabriCARE has prepared a tip sheet on the care and storage of St John Knits. Click to to view the document. No registration required.
Blocking
At RAVE FabriCARE, every sweater and knit garment is carefully measured prior to cleaning.
After cleaning, your sweaters and knits are de-pilled, delinted and blocked to your original measurements.
Blocking involves:
- Measuring all dimensions of a garment prior to cleaning.
- Maintaining a record of all those dimensions.
- Shaping the garment to those orivginal measurements, using hands and steam.
- Applying a vacuum to “dry” the steam and “lock” the shape into place.
- Returning the garment with proof of blocking.
All our sweaters and knits are finished on custom steam/vacuum tables. This way the entire garment can be laid perfectly flat and blocked to shape using steam and vacuum.
Very few cleaners in the USA actually block their sweaters and knits. And even fewer have specialized blocking equipment necessary to do the job right.
Other than RAVE FabriCARE, we know of no other cleaner in Arizona that has this specialized blocking equipment.
Proof of blocking
At RAVE FabriCARE, proof of blocking accompanies every sweater and knit garment returned to you..
Here’s how it works…….
We use four different custom printed blocking tags – for sweaters/blazers, slacks/trousers, dresses and skirts.
Prior to cleaning, every sweater and knit garment is carefully measured (up to 12 different dimensions). These dimensions are noted on the appropriate blocking tag.
The blocking tag accompanies your garment through the entire cleaning, finishing/blocking, inspection and packaging process.
At the packaging stage, we hang the blocking tag on your garment hanger or place it in your breathable sweater bag.
While some ordinary cleaners claim that they block their sweaters and knits, RAVE FabriCARE puts proof of blocking right in your hands.
Because claims without proof are just hallucinations.
Our knit care process
At RAVE FabriCARE, we specialize in knits generally and in St John Knits in particular.
Truth is, this specialization is merely an extension of the extraordinary care we lavish on all your specialty garments with trim or embellishments.
At RAVE FabriCARE, every knit is:
- Protected against scratching or chipping of the buttons, zipper pulls and other hardware.
- Measured prior to cleaning.
- Pre-spotted prior to cleaning.
- Cleaned in dry cleaning fluid that’s extremely gentle on the garment and on trims such as glued-on pailettes and/or rhinestones.
- Cleaned in dry cleaning fluid that’s completely odorless.
- Cleaned in dry cleaning fluid that’s as crystal clear as bottled mountain spring water.
- Blocked to size after cleaning.
- Carefully and thoroughly inspected. From top to bottom. From inside to outside.
- Elegantly packaged using premium materials.
All this means that:
- Your knits will fit perfectly.
- Your white, cream and pastel knits will always be spectacularly bright (particularly if they’ve always been cleaned at RAVE FabriCARE).
- Your dark colored knits will always look rich and lustrous, without that “washed out”, faded look (particularly if they’ve always been cleaned at RAVE FabriCARE).
- The light colored edging on your dark colored knits won’t turn greyish or dingy (as long as they’ve always been cleaned at RAVE FabriCARE).
- Your knits will never have any “dry cleaning solvent” smell, or any fragrance or perfume smell.
- The glued-on pailettes and/or rhinestones on your St John Knits won’t peel off or lose their luster (as long as they’ve always been cleaned at RAVE FabriCARE).
At RAVE FabriCARE, our care for knits is unmatched by any dry cleaner in Arizona and by few in the USA.
Adjustments to the dimensions of knits returned to you
Why do we pre-measure every knit prior to cleaning?
Why do we block your knits to size after cleaning?
Why do we return every knit to you with the pre-cleaning dimensions as well as the post-cleaning dimensions attached to your garment?
Simply because we want to ensure that each knit returned to you has been cleaned to our highest standards and blocked to as close to pre-cleaning dimensions as possible.
If any of your knits require some minor dimensional adjustments after they have been returned to you, we will be happy to accommodate that request.
However, we do require that our original blocking tag – identifying the pre-cleaning dimensions – be returned together with your garment.
We regret that we cannot accommodate any request to re-block a knit unless that knit is accompanied by the original blocking tag.
There is, of course, a secondary reason why we pre-measure your knits prior to cleaning and subsequently block your knits to those pre-cleaning dimensions.
You see, as a fabricare specialist, we occasionally receive knits that have shrunk or stretched.
Here are two examples:
- The knit was washed at home and/or tossed in a dryer. And, as a result, it shrunk.
- The knit was “steamed out” by another cleaner. And, as a result, it overstretched.
The problem is that, in some cases, these facts were never disclosed to us when the garment was dropped off or sent in. The client then claims that “you shrunk my sweater…it’s two sizes too small” or, alternatively, “you stretched my sweater…it’s way too big.”
Pre-measurement of all knits and the return of a blocking tag with your garment eliminates these all too common scenarios.
St John Knits with glued on pailettes and/or rhinestones
In the preceding paragraph, we state that the glued-on pailettes and/or rhinestones on your St. John Knits won’t peel off or lose their luster – as long as the knit has always been cleaned at RAVE FabriCARE.
Why do we use the term “as long as the knit has always been cleaned at RAVE FabriCARE”?
Because we’ve been cleaning in siloxane – a very gentle dry cleaning fluid that doesn’t dry out the glues – for over 15 years. And because we’ve never had St John Knits with pailettes and/or rhinestones peel off or deluster where RAVE FabriCARE has been the only dry cleaner who has cared for that garment from day one.
As a dry cleaner, the problems we face on many St. John Knits with pailettes and/or rhinestones – particularly on older St John Knits with the Marie Gray label – are 3 fold:
- the glues used on these older St John Knits might have naturally dried out over time due to improper storage
- the dry cleaning solvent used to previously clean these older St John Knits might have dried out the glues.
- it’s almost impossible to speculate whether or not the glues used on these older St John Knits have dried out unless, of course, the pailettes and/or rhinestones show visible signs of peeling off or delustering prior to cleaning.
Typically, St John Knits will stand behind a garment that is less than 5 years old if the pailettes and/or rhinestones peel off or deluster. They will provide no such assurance on garments older than 5 years.
And, if St John Knits won’t stand behind their own garments with pailettes and/or rhinestones that are more than 5 years old, we see no reason why RAVE FabriCARE should function as St John’s insurance company.
Accordingly, RAVE FabriCARE requires a signed waiver of liability on any of the following St John Knit garments with pailettes and/or rhinestones:
- If the garment is more than 5 years old.
- If the garment is more than 5 years old and has been cleaned, at any point in time, by a cleaner other than RAVE FabriCARE.
- If the garment is less than 5 years old and has been cleaned, at any point in time, by a cleaner other than RAVE FabriCARE.
- If the garment was purchased from a consignment or resale store either online or locally.
Single-dimensional (length or width) corrective re-blocking
Are any of your sweaters or knits out of shape?
In many cases, sweaters and knits can be re-blocked to your desired and/or original measurements.
To facilitate re-blocking, attach one of our convenient blocking diagrams to your garment.
To view and print these diagrams, click on any one of the diagrams below:
Then mark up the diagram to reflect the changes you desire.
For example, if you wish to re-block the sleeves of your blazer 1-1/2 inches longer and the waist 1 inch wider.
- Print the sweater/blazer diagram
- Enter the garment description, such as brand name and color
- Circle the sleeve length (#7) and write “make 1-1/2 inches longer” next to #7
- Circle the waist (#3) and write “make 1 inch wider” next to #3
- Attach diagram to your blazer.
It’s really that simple.
Two-dimensional (length & width) corrective re-blocking
We often receive requests to re-block sweaters and knits that are misshaped along the 2 major dimensions: length and width.
Typically, these requests are accompanied by an explanation. For example:
- “I washed this sweater in error and it shrunk in both length and width”.
- “I took this to an ordinary cleaner and got it back looking like this. Now it’s too long and too wide”.
- “I’m a size 10 in a St Johns Knit suit. I purchased this St. John Knit suit (label says size 10) online but the jacket is too tight in the body and the too short in the length”.
Blocking larger
As a general rule, a sweater or knit can be re-blocked about a size to a size and a half larger, but along one dimension only.
In other words, if you are looking to to re-block a sweater or knit wider, you cannot also re-block the sweater longer. As a general rule, you need to focus on one dimension only.
Conversely, if you are looking to to re-block a sweater or knit longer, you cannot also re-block the sweater wider. As a general rule, you need to focus on one dimension only.
Blocking smaller
As a general rule, a sweater or knit can be re-blocked about a size smaller, but along one dimension only.
In other words, if you are looking to to re-block a sweater or knit smaller in the width, you cannot also re-block the sweater shorter in the length. As a general rule, you need to focus on one dimension only.
Conversely, if you are looking to to re-block a sweater or knit shorter in the length, you cannot also re-block the sweater narrower in the width. As a general rule, you need to focus on one dimension only.
Please remember that these are rules of thumb.
Accordingly, please understand that
- We cannot provide guarantees that your desired dimensions – both length and width – can be achieved.
- We’ll only know the results after the work has been completed.
- We cannot undertake any cleaning and re-blocking work on a “results-achieved basis”.
- We cannot undertake “blocking only” work as our blocking specialists can only work on garments that we know are clean.
If you agree to entrust your sweaters or knits to us for cleaning and re-blocking, we will do our very best to achieve your desired dimensions – both length and width – and we expect to be paid for our efforts.
To facilitate re-blocking, attach one of our convenient blocking diagrams to your garment.
To view and print these diagrams, click on any one of the diagrams below:
Then mark up the diagram to reflect the changes you desire.
Refer to the example in the sub-section above for instructions on marking up the diagram.
Restoring a St John Knit ensemble that has an identical color tone
At RAVE FabriCARE, we may be able to rejuvenate, or even fully restore, your pailette-free, rhinestone-free, white, cream or pastel St. John Knit ensembles that have become yellow, grey, dull and/or stained due to improper cleaning or storage.
Our special whitening and/or brightening processes may be able to bring them back to life.
For two or three piece St. John Knit ensembles, we must be able to treat all pieces of the ensemble at the same time to stand any chance of achieving consistency of color across all pieces.
Please understand that
- St John Knit suits are wool and/or wool/rayon blends.
- St John Knit suits are “dry clean only” garments.
- Our whitening and/or brightening processes typically involves soaking in a water-based process, hand rinsing, flat drying, dry cleaning to restore the texture and feel, and re-blocking to as close to original measurements as possible.
- It might not be possible to remove all oxidized or caramelized yellow or brown stains, particularly if the garment(s) has been improperly cleaned and dried multiple times in the past.
There are risks. So it’s not possible to guarantee perfect results on every St Johns ensemble.
That being said, we’ve been able to produce excellent results on many St John Knit ensemble.
At RAVE FabriCARE, our strength is our personalized advisory service. We welcome the opportunity to discuss your options, advise you as to the risks associated with each option, and identify the results you can or cannot expect from each – using our best judgment.
Restoring a St John Knit ensemble that has differing color tones
If you have a pailette-free, rhinestone-free, white, cream or pastel St. John Knit ensemble that’s become yellow, grey, dull and/or stained due to improper cleaning or storage – and those ensemble pieces currently exhibit a clear variation in color from one piece to the other – we might still be able to employ our special whitening and/or brightening processes to bring them back to life.
For two or three piece St John Knit ensembles, we must be able to treat all pieces of the ensemble at the same time to stand any chance of achieving consistency of color across all pieces.
In other words, if you took one piece of a 2 or 3 pice ensemble to a cleaner and that cleaner yellowed, grayed, dulled and/or failed to remove stains from that piece – and as a result that one piece has a different color tone from the other pieces of the ensemble – we must be able to treat all pieces of the ensemble at the same time to stand any chance of achieving consistency of color across all pieces.
Accordingly, we cannot accept one piece of a 2 or 3 piece ensemble with instructions to “make this slacks the same color as the jacket but do not clean the jacket…use the jacket as a color guide only”.
Because of the pre-existing variations in color, the process required is more time consuming and the outcome less predictable.
The same risks discussed in the section above apply.
Keeping shape in storage
To keep the shape of your sweaters and knits during storage, we recommend that your sweaters and knits be carefully folded, cushioned with acid free tissue, and packaged in one of our breathable sweater bags.
For more information on the characteristics of our our breathable sweater bags and how to purchase these bags as well as other specialty storage solutions, please click here.
Caring for St John Knits
Purchasing
- Classic styles almost never age.
- Buy multiple pieces within the season to ensure a perfect color match, especially when it comes to white.
- Ask for extra buttons.
- Solicit the advise of your clothier.
- If you are purchasing a St John Knit with glued on pailettes and/or rhinestones from a consignment or resale store – whether online or locally – always ask for a guarantee that the glues haven’t dried out due to improper prior dry cleaning and that the pailettes and/or rhinestones won’t peel off during any subsequent cleaning.
Altering
- Altering knits is more expensive than altering other fabric garments.
- Save the offcuts for future re-knitting or reweaving.
Wearing
- Knits are comfortable, breathable, hydroscopic, relatively wrinkle resistant.
- Exercise care when removing. Do not overstretch.
Cleaning
- Understand the pros and cons of the 4 primary dry cleaning solvents and fluids: perchlorethylene (aka perc), synthetic petroleum, formaldehyde dibutyl acetal and siloxane.
- Understand the difference between oil-based stains and water-based stains, and their impact on the cleaning of your knits.
- Inform your dry cleaner of any invisible, sugar-based stains.
- Inform your dry cleaner if you are cleaning one piece of a multi piece white, cream or pastel ensemble.
- Entrust your fine knits to a specialty dry cleaner who pre-spots every garment (and doesn’t post-spot or no-spot their garments).
- Entrust your whites, creams and pastels as well as your dark colors with white or cream trim along the edges to a specialty dry cleaner who guarantees that their dry cleaning fluid is crystal clear. As clear as bottled mountain spring water.
- Entrust your fine knits to a specialty dry cleaner who guarantees that their dry cleaning fluid is non-dye stripping and won’t fade your colors.
- Entrust your fine knits to a specialty dry cleaner who guarantees that they do not add or inject moisture, sizing or fragrance into their dry cleaning machine’s wash cycles. Excessive moisture can shrink wool garments; sizing can leave wools stiff as cardboard; and fragrances can leave you smelling like you’ve just walked off the late night shift in a perfume factory.
- Entrust your fine knits to a specialty dry cleaner who guarantees that your trims will not melt, deluster or fall off (for more details, see the sub-section titled “St John Knits With Glued On Pailettes And/Or Rhinestones” in this section of our website).
Finishing / Blocking
- Never press a knit on a pressing machine.
- Understand the concept of knit blocking (aka knit reshaping or knit sizing).
- Entrust your knits to a specialty dry cleaner who measures every knit prior to cleaning and who blocks every knit to those same measurements after cleaning.
- Insist on physical proof of blocking. Never accept a dry cleaner’s verbal assurance that they block all knits.
If your knit wasn’t returned to you with proof of blocking, you can take it as a given that they didn’t pre- measure prior to cleaning and post-measure after cleaning. - Blocking can reshape a knit that is misshapen: if a knit has shrunk, blocking can typically increase the size by one or one and a half sizes; if a knit has stretched, blocking can typically reduce the size by one size.
- As a general rule, a sweater or knit can be re-blocked about a size to a size and a half larger or a size smaller but along one dimension only – length or width (for more details, see the sub-section titled “Two Dimensional (Length And Width) Correctional Re-blocking” in this section of our website).
Restoration
- Solid whites, creams and pastels can be brightened. You must treat all pieces of an ensemble at the same time to stand any chance of achieving a consistent color. No guarantee can be provided that a multi-piece ensemble with an identical color tone will result in a perfectly consistent color across all pieces.
- Solid whites, creams and pastels that have existing color variation(s) can also be brightened. You must treat all pieces of an ensemble at the same time to stand any chance of achieving a consistent color.
No guarantee can be provided that a multi piece ensemble with a differing color tone will result in a perfectly consistent color across all pieces. - Update a blazer by changing the size of shoulder pads or eliminating them altogether.
Re-knitting
- Darker pieces re-kit or reweave quite well, lighter colored pieces may show. No guarantee can be provided that a re-kit or reweave will result in a completely invisible repair.
Storage – Seasonal
- Always dry clean your wools at the end of the summer immediately prior to storage for the season. This is the only way to ensure that your wools are protected from damage by feeding moth larvae.
- Never store garments that are damp or moist.
- Never store garments in a hot or damp environment such as a garage, attic or basement.
- Never seal garments in any type of non-breathable bag. All garments must breathe.
- Never store garments in plastic bags, nylon bags or vinyl bags.
- Never hang sweaters and shells on hangers. For best results, fold knit sweaters and shells in breathable, chemically inert storage bags made of cotton or polypropylene fibers.
- Never hang knit blazers on thin, straight or thin wish-bone wood, chrome or other hangers. For best results, hang knit blazers on contoured hangers that have a wide shoulder base or on hangers that are heavily padded. Then hang in breathable, chemically inert storage bags made of cotton or polypropylene fibers.
- Never hang knit slacks lengthwise on some type of clip hanger. For best results, hang knit slacks over a strut hanger. Then hang in breathable, chemically inert storage bags made of cotton or polypropylene fibers.
- Do not overcrowd your closet.
Storage – Long Term
- Always dry clean your wools immediately prior to long term storage. This is the only way to ensure that your wools are protected from damage by feeding moth larvae.
- Avoid anything cedar – cedar blocks, cedar rings, cedar chests, cedar closets, etc.
- Avoid moth balls and herbal sachets.
- Fold flat or hang in breathable, chemically inert storage bags made of cotton or polypropylene fibers.
- Avoid regular tissue – white or colored, logo printed or unprinted – used by your local dry cleaner or clothing retailer. Use unbuffered, acid-free tissue only.
Traveling
- Fold sweaters, shells and slacks.
- Do not fold blazers. Stuff sleeves with tissue and double bag in poly.
- Hang as soon as you check in at your destination.
- Never hang knits in a steamy bathroom. The application of moisture without simultaneous drying by vacuum relaxes the fibers and distorts the shape.
- Never entrust your fine garments – knits or otherwise – to the “hotel valet service”. Very few hotels do their own work. Instead, they subcontract their cleaning to the lowest bidder. Your garments are picked up at the hotel at 9 am and returned by 2 or 3pm. The quality of the product delivered by these subcontractors is, typically, on a par with or worse than your local $2/piece or $3/piece discount cleaner.
