Evaluating the construction of bespoke garments: Hand vs. machine work

At RAVE FabriCARE, we specialize in cleaning, restoring and hand ironing fine garments.

Over the past 35 years, we've developed a specialty service caring for bespoke suits, sport coats, trousers and shirts.

Because we serve clients located throughout the USA, Canada and other selected countries, we're exposed to a wide array of bespoke garments crafted in the USA, UK, Italy and Hong Kong.

During the course of serving these clients, I'm frequently asked to critique these garments. Typically, the conversation -- either in person or on the phone -- turns specific: What do you think of the construction of this garment?

Although I've improved my knowledge of construction techniques over the years, I'd be the first to admit that my ability to answer that question is relatively primitive.

There are individuals who are, today, far more knowledgeable than I'll ever be.

Ae individuals nclude Simon Crompton (www.permanentstyle.com), Jeffery Diduch (tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com) and Derek Guy (www.dieworkwear.com).

So I was delighted to read Derek Guy's blog post titled What's the point of hand work?

Finally, here was a post that clarified, at least in my mind, why talking about the "construction" of a bespoke garment is often so confusing:

• The terms hand work and machine work are often used interchangeably.
• The degree of hand work vs. machine work offered by the same tailor can vary significantly depending on the client
• The degree of hand work vs. machine work offered by the same tailor can vary significantly depending on the price point
• The degree of hand work vs. machine work offered by different tailors can vary significantly -- even at the same price point.

Furthermore, hand work is often confused with embellishments.

As Derek points out, this confusion is aggravated by the fact that even ready to wear brands add embellishments to their garments to foster the illusion of hand work. Such details include pick stitching on the lapels of a Hugo Boss jacket or a hand sewn placket, collar and hem on a Kiton shirt.  

This post is a must read for anyone interested in fine bespoke garments and their construction.

You can read Derek's posts on dieworkwear.com and putthison.com.